When you are ready to plant your new plants, the first step is to remove them from the pots. Virtually all containerized plants are grown in a soil-free media composed of ground bark and an array of other non-soil products. Such soil-free mixes are designed to be sharply draining to prevent over watering and minimize root diseases in a production setting. When containerized plants are actively growing, some require watering as much as twice each day. If your planting is delayed, please be careful to keep your plants adequately watered. The amount of water needed depends on the light conditions, growth rate of the plant, season of the year, and local weather conditions (temperature, light, and humidity).

There is a great misunderstanding about roots and what is acceptable from a container grown plant. You’ve all heard about not purchasing root-bound plants, but this is one of those oft-perpetuated garden myths. As a general rule, more roots mean a better plant. In a nursery, a well-grown container plant can develop a root-bound stature within 8 weeks of potting. The idea of a nursery repotting plants every 8 weeks doesn’t pass the laugh test. If you purchase a woody plant, it will have woody roots, which often remain alive for the life of the plant. These woody roots need to be spread out and often selectively pruned at planting time to prevent problems later in a plants life. Root-bound woody plants are best handled by hosing down the roots until they can be untangled. The same is not true for perennials which do not have woody roots. These roots come and go, with many being regenerated annually. As long as you can loosen the roots from the potting soil so the roots are in contact with the planting soil, perennials will be fine. The only problems with root-bound perennials occur when the roots are left in a tight ball and the plants cannot be kept hydrated until the roots spread out and become established.

When you plant your plants, it is important that you breakup the rootball. This allows the roots to come in contact with your native soil which will hold much more water than the soil-free potting mix. If you plant without loosening the root ball, it will be more difficult to provide adequate watering until the roots grow out of the potting mix and into the surrounding soil. If the roots aren’t loosened, the majority can die within a couple of days if the roots only remain in contact with the potting soil, even though your native soil appears to be wet. Even if you remove the potting soil, you will still need to keep the new plants watered, but you will find they will establish much more quickly. Where possible, roots should be spread
horizontally in the planting hole. With most soils, the amount of air available increases nearer the soil surface. Most roots require oxygen to grow and they prefer to be spread horizontally. This is particularly important on orchids such as calanthes and cypripediums. The entire root mass of your new plant should be completely covered, but with the orchids mentioned, the best covering material is a good compost. A good rule of thumb is to plant your plant the same depth in the ground as it was in the pot you received.

Water your newly planted plants as soon as possible after planting. There is no rule of thumb for how often to water a new plant, but if most of the roots are in contact with the native soil and that seems wet, your plant should be fine until the soil dries. Sometimes a newly planted plant will wilt despite the soil and roots being wet. This is termed transplant shock and is a temporary condition. The plant is adapting to different growing conditions and possibly fewer roots. In order for the plant to adapt, it reduces foliage (and flowers) to match the remaining root system. Flowers are sacrificed first, then the lower leaves, and so on until moisture equilibrium has been reached. This can be overcome by keeping the foliage moist until new roots have emerged. An occasional misting of the foliage, especially on hot windy days, is perfect. This may take anywhere from a few days to a few weeks. Be sure not to keep the soil saturated, as this will inhibit new root formation. Watering during the first 2-3 weeks is most critical for actively growing plants, after which time new roots should begin growing into the surrounding soil. Plants that are planted dormant or going dormant will usually be fine if they are watered-in initially, but keep a watch on your soil in times of extreme drought.

If you are waiting to plant or simply wish to use your plant in a decorative container, increase to the next container size. For example, if you receive a 24oz container plant (4-inch pot), increase to no more than a 6” diameter pot, 8” pot for a 2 qt. container, 10” pot for a 3 qt. container. Be sure to use a well-draining potting media. If not, you run the risk of rotting the roots in an ocean of wet soil.

We wish you the best of luck with your new plants and thanks for your patronage!